Surviving the Cold-Meggie and Liam

Picture: Meg’s picture of ridge with lake in foreground 

Never have we been so hot! Which may sound strange coming from recent residents of Finland. The reason as to why we were so hot was because we were introducing ourselves into the Finnish custom of going into a sauna when we were invited to a small get-together. Since it was a small sauna, the two of us and dad, accompanied by our new friends and their dad, was all we could fit. Halfway through we stepped gingerly outside into the freezing cold night and then lowered ourselves cautiously into the freezing water of an unheated outdoor pool; only to scramble back out again.

The hosts were so generous and knew exactly what people our age wanted to try out in Finland: chocolate. Which is something they are very well known for and also have very high standards for the quality, too. After testing several different flavours, we still can’t make up our minds as to what our favourites were. Not to mention that some of the flavours were completely foreign so it made it ever harder to distinguish between them.

We were so thankful to be able to not only get to know fellow Finns, it was also great to come to understand how different some things they do here. For ex. students don’t have standardized tests or finals. Which as you can imagine is completely different from our norm.

To ‘finnish’ – pun intended… we are still excited to be discovering and doing new things in our new hometown.

Staff Meeting Bliss-Robyn

Picture: Mindfulness at the workplace-imagine…

Earlier in the week, I was running around my new workplace getting acquainted with the unfamiliar, gaining access codes, new keys, and swiftly walking into yet another new office space. I was sweating because with my mind all aflutter with to-do lists, I hadn’t yet learned to take off my massive parka, hat, gloves, scarf and place all of these belongings in the lobby rack. Imagine my surprise as I open the door to what I’m hoping is the right room, I am struck instantly by the calm and quiet. All employees standing quietly listening to an instructor leading them through a series of stretches and mindfulness lessons. I’ve read about this and often wished I could be a part of a group of professionals who’d value this type of time each day, however I’ve never seen it in action…pure amazement on my face as I watched from the sidelines so as not to disturb their mindfulness practice. After a bit my US ‘go go go go’ mentality kicks in telling me I must get the next item off my list accomplished. However, this vision stuck with me for several days and I began to imagine what this would look like at home.

Imagine a gathering of education professionals coming together for a meeting. I can hear your groans as you read this:) Instead, visualize a group of professionals walking quietly into a room that has already been set up with tables pushed to the side and yoga mats placed along the floor. As each colleague walks in they knowingly remove their shoes and quietly take their place on the floor, some with blankets brought from home. The lights dim and all are quietly listening to the directions given. No time is spent on, “The agenda today is…” Rather, the mindfulness and meditation occurs straight away and lasts for 40 minutes. All participants are respectful, all take part, and all embrace the benefits from this exercise. As 1 or 2 arrive late they find their spot quickly and quietly so as to not interfere, blending in and honoring the space of the their colleagues during this mindfulness practice. As the session ends, colleagues begin to engage in calm and quiet conversation as each person takes their part in placing the room back together, rolling up mats, putting chairs back, and slowly walking towards the next step of the program. It seems as though all are walking through water with movements slow and deliberate with a soft smile as a gift from the previous 40 minutes.

A line forms as a meal of healthy salad, tea/coffee/water, and fresh baked breads are presented to nourish the colleague’s bodies. Options are all healthy with gluten free and peanut-free choices. The line runs smoothly as people are patient and willing to take their time choosing from the 5 various salad options. Each person takes a seat not saving places for a specific person, but welcoming whom so ever comes to their table. A delicious meal is supplemented with quiet conversations of families, work, vacations, hopes for future. As the meal comes to a close all walk to a new room.

This new room is set up with stool cushions for all to sit on, allowing for flexible seating. The room fills with anticipation and a few giggle in quiet tones as they await further instruction. In front of the room 5 individuals prepare to complete an artistic improvisation of the information each of the colleagues share in small groups. Some humor unfolds, some tears at the loss of a loved one, and hopes all transcribed onto the stage. The purpose is quite clear: it is to bring the professionals together. Small groups are encouraged discussing the struggles of the past year with more impromptu improvisations depicting the challenges on stage. The session ends with a performance based on shared out visions for the year to come. At the conclusion, applause is given and each individual leaves respectfully with no further unnecessary chatter, leaving work behind. Imagine, just imagine if this was your work environment.

It’s hard to believe, but this wasn’t from my imagination: this actually occurred. I am grateful for the Department of Education at JYU for inviting me to participate in their staff gathering. Even with everything being in Finnish, the entire evening was incredible and the mood and approach transferred across any language barriers.

Saunas and Language Classes/First Week Reflection-Stu

Picture: AAHHH!~ Me cooling off during our family sauna session.

This has been a huge first week adjusting to our new norm in Finland. Home schooling is now not just an option, but a necessity because we did not get an extra stamp on the back of the kids’ birth certificates back in the U.S. (who knew?) Without the stamp, we cannot prove the kids are ours (!) and so could not sign them up for school even if we wanted. We found this out while registering ourselves as residents in the Magistraati (registry office) in town. This is not actually a big deal as we have our own health insurance and do not mind having to leave the country in 3 months time. In fact, we already have firm plans to visit Estonia next week and will be heading to Stockholm, Sweden and St Petersburg, Russia in the Spring. So all’s well that ends well.

We have discovered that it is possible to exercise comfortably out of doors even in -12℃/10.5 ℉ weather. There’s a steep set of stairs on a ridge to climb in the park across the street. There’s also workout stations on the trails that wind in and around this beautiful area. You just have to put your spikes on to prevent slipping while you work out (that and reduce the amount you wear so as not to overheat-I know, weird isn’t it?!) The lake is now completely frozen and people are using it as a shortcut across town. We stood on it nervously today and it seemed very solid. Soon there will be a groomed skating trail around the edge, but as it’s up to 3 kilometers long, there is room on the deep layer of powder for some cross country skiing for those like me who have no experience skiing downhill, yet. Forests surround the town and so this also affords some off-roading on skis or snowshoes.

Speaking of things healthful, we have had our first experiences of sauna this week both privately in our own apartment block’s sauna during our family’s allocated time, and at a multi-family get together at someone’s home. Our private one is great and we have now been in a few times. I love the set up which includes an attached shower/wet room for showering, cooling down, and refilling the water bowl. There’s also a side room for changing. All very civilized. I’ve been opting for cooling down outside by covering myself in snow! Aaahh! So refreshing (I’m actually not kidding).

On Friday, we were invited to the lovely home of Marja and her husband Ari (I apologize if I’ve spelled your name wrong, Ari) who have been good mentors to Fulbrighters over the years. They laid on a very generous buffet of Finnish favorites including several different types of chocolates (the best have liquorice inside); sausage with melted cheese; pizza; and of course, pulla. Ari clued us into the finer points of sauna and then turned us loose in his wood-burning masterpiece of a sauna room. Of course, we were challenged to take a dip in his outside pool kept at 2℃ so as not to freeze solid. I knew it would be cold as the pool cover had almost 8 inches of snow on top. I cannot tell you how terrifying and stimulating taking an avantu (cold water swim) actually is during such cold weather. I have never experienced such cold water temperatures. However, during a sauna, it is actually a great feeling once your heart starts beating again! We all did it twice. Oh, and it doesn’t count according to the laughing Finns if you don’t totally submerge. I have a feeling though that this may be a form of hazing for new arrivals:) I jest though, as many Finns make this a part of their daily routine. Ari for one advocates it.

We have also been taking Finnish language lessons at Gloria in the multi-cultural center. The volunteers there are all so friendly and keen to help everyone learn Finnish. In addition, they also try to help everyone find and become part of a community to help them adjust to their new home country. Many of those learning Finnish are asylum seekers, or immigrants looking for a better life, adults who are there for work, students taking a semester or two of courses, or those like us who are linked to the university for a long period of time and want to learn. The materials cost just 3 Euros and last for quite a while judging by the thickness of the book and our own snail-pace progress. It’s great value, but what really stands out are the extra classes and opportunities to join other groups after class. For example, they have art and cooking classes just for women (presumably because so many have had abuse before they came to Finland) as well as craft evenings for families-all in Finnish of course. They also have government employees coming in to help with social security forms, and advisors to help with resume building, employment forms, school homework, etc. I’ve been very impressed, and a highlight has been watching a Finnish news segment on the big screen in the middle of each class. Although on the last one, which showed an interview in London, a bus rolled past with “Bollocks to Brexit” written on the side. Thankfully none of the other language learners wanted to know what it meant even though my son was giggling.

So, the initial excitement is starting to wear off and we are now adjusting to our new life away from life. Is it wrong to be craving a burrito already? Hope everyone is ok back home.


Costa Rica: Monte Verde/Selvatura Park

Picture: Meggie and Liam on an open suspension bridge leading into the rain forest

This morning we took a bus up to the rain forest to explore a section of mostly new growth in Selvatura Park. Our plan was to acclimatize ourselves to the forest and to canopy tours in general before the ‘big’ zipline experience the following day. The rain misted on and off for the next few hours, but thankfully did not turn into a tropical downpour, which at this elevation, is chillingly cold.

Note: if you do spend money to go to a tourist park or activity like ziplining, they will often send out a van or small bus to pick you up from your lodgings. However, be patient as they do make a few stops so as to have a full bus to make it worth their while.

Right at the start we heard the eerie moaning howl of some strange creatures emanating from the mist. The sound was actually quite scary and disconcerting; kind of like a cross between a bear and some diabolical monster rising from the underworld. The mist only seemed to amplify the howls while hiding the creatures. As you may have guessed, the sound comes from the aptly named howler monkeys that forage in this area each day. We never did see them though.

The walk itself was great. Every tree was covered in moss and there were a multitude of other nameless plants hanging and and creeping all over. The sheer amount of plants were mind-boggling. I particularly enjoyed seeing wild orchids and other parasitic plants nestled into the spongy trunks of towering trees. Clouds and mist wafted past cool on our cheeks as crossed several huge hanging bridges amongst the trees. Some of these bridges were 500 feet long and over 100 feet above the ground. The air was cool and moist and the light was muted by the canopy overhead. We all loved the gently swaying bridges and the feeling of being up among the treetops.

Returning back to our little room, we ate a simple lunch and napped for a while recovering from the loss of sleep that sometimes presents itself in a new place with new sounds (especially a powerful thunderstorm and hours-long deluge from the night before). When we felt sufficiently rested we decided to try and find a massive hollow climbing tree that another young family had told us about this morning during breakfast. We had the general location of the tree in a section of woods on the edge of town, and had to look for one that towered above all others. We walked up steep little roads among b&b’s, small hotels and a variety of small homes. As we got close, a brown dog of dubious pedigree but friendly demeanor hauled itself up from its siesta in its owner’s front yard and led the way into the woods and onto each trailhead as we searched. The dog was a character and kind of matter of fact in his assumed role of guide. We found the tree in the middle of the humid forest and we all had a little climbing trial. I say trial as we were all a little perturbed by the thought of poisonous snakes and spiders that may be lurking in the shadows. This was of course our first experience being off trail in a tropical country and we hadn’t yet become used to it. The kids did great climbing and hanging. It was possible to climb way up inside or even all the way up on the outside as old vines had wrapped themselves around the entire span of the trunk. The dog waited patiently. Eventually we decided to head back to our b&b. When we returned down the road, our canine guide simply walked off to his property as though this was an everyday occurrence. Actually, we were sure it was!

Back at the b&b, Robyn and I laid out a map of Costa Rica and tentatively formed a plan of attack for the next 6 weeks. We’d started to notice that these tourist places were seemed to be mostly only really good for a few days as everything is geared towards tourists on buses from resorts or tours with money to burn and searching for the extreme experiences that Costa Rica offers. In other words, most people go on a tour to “do” the ziplines, or whitewater rafting, etc. Although this is fun and we also wanted to participate a little, it was not the basis of our trip. We wanted to really immerse ourselves in this lush country and to fully experience everything; the good, the bad, and the ugly. Added to which, we were going to have to do it on a super tight budget. Luckily for us, whenever we go anywhere we would rather do things that were free, although this could be a tad limiting. That’s why our kids have very low expectations as to being bought stuff. However, according to our tentative plan, we would still have up to 3 weeks relaxing by the beach near national parks after we’d circled and explored the entire country. Nice! Next up, a full-blown zipline (well, we have to, right?) and then on to the cloud forest (old-growth full of exotic fauna and flora) before heading to Essence near Arinal which would be lower in elevation.

Language Class and Sledding-Meggie and Liam

Picture: The beautiful river Tourojoki, taken by Meggie on our way to language school

Who would have thought we’d get hot in 15 degree weather. We started off our day with some running, stair climbing, and sledding as a means of working out for the first time since our arrival in Jyvaskyla. And it isn’t just physical activity that kept our heart rates up, wandering around town was so exciting, it had the same affect.

As we hurried over to our first Finnish class, we stopped to look at the breathtaking picturesque river that went beneath the bridge we were crossing. When we finally arrived at the school we were surprised to find that they wanted us to take off your shoes upon entry; something totally alien to our american customs. We had also discovered that – wow – finnish is a really tough language to learn. And that, despite the countless amount of letters per word, Finns manage to pronounce every single letter there is.

Every day in Finland has brought new experiences and adventures, it’s so been fun to put our thoughts of our trip into words, we hope you guys all enjoy it too!

Uncharted Waters Abound!-Robyn

Picture: Flyer from the Multicultural Center-should I sign up?

So many things are new! I came here to learn from the Finnish school system which is obviously new. However, everything around me is new: the weather, the people I work with, the internet, the town, transportation, the customs, the cadence of speech, the space between individuals, the library system, the toilet, the food, the clothes, the culture, the schedule, and of course the language. There are moments of exhilaration with all the new and at times I find I have to tell myself to breathe as I have become overwhelmed. I am naturally an introvert and I have to push myself to meet and greet in order to take advantage of everything new Fulbright and Finland  has to offer. I made a promise to myself that since I have been given this amazing opportunity I must say yes to everything. In addition to all this uncharted newness I am way out of my comfort zone. From sending emails essentially selling myself to people I’ve never met to ask permission to come to their schools, to meeting with heads of University Departments to ask deep-rooted ethical questions about their programs. I’m drinking way too much coffee at each of these meetings not because it’s my drink of choice, but because I haven’t yet figured out how to purchase seltzer water or find the tea that I prefer. Through this uncharted newness I am learning. I am learning so very much about how the Finnish work and I am learning that I have a voice as to how students with disabilities should be educated. I haven’t yet had that much-anticipated “Ah-ha” moment, but I do have faith that it will arrive. My brain just has to synthesize all that has come and continues to come my way.

Apps and Adapting-Stu

Picture: Main staircase heading up Harju taken by Meggie. Skiers were jumping across the width Sunday.

Coming to Finland? After 4 whole days in Finland I have to raise a glass (empty as alcohol is very expensive here) to some great Apps and innovations we’ve discovered that make life much easier in a different country. The first is an App called HereWeGo which links to your location and can be used to find stores, addresses, museums, pretty much anything in your area. It seems to be a worldwide App and is both easy to use and free. The next is an App for the buses in Finland called Linkki which will use your location to find a destination you enter similar to google maps. The difference is that it will select the bus route and give you options on times. Then it will show you how to walk or drive to the right stop. Super useful if, like us you have only a basic understanding of where you are in a new town. You can also purchase different ticket packages or re-up existing cards. Our favorite though has to be the flexible ‘crampon’ style rubber grippers that stretch over the sole of your boots, such as YakTrax (or one of several generics available on Amazon.com or stores such as REI back in the states). With the risk of falling on ice or compressed snow, these give a great feeling of security and can easily be pulled on or off when entering a building. I’ve seen runners wearing training shoes with these built in, but I’m not there yet…Our next purchase will be personal sauna seats that you can carry around in case you get invited into one. I guess they also give peace of mind rather than whipping out some sanitizer. (Awkward;)

Just in case you feel like visiting us (or somewhere warm if you’re sensible), I recommend getting an international plan so that you can confidently use your phone. The charges can be severe I’ve heard. Some folks from the states here have brand new phones and can use a dual sim card, but the system is new and seems to have bugs that are leaving them unsupported and unable to use their phones properly. We use What’s App to either text, call, or videocall as it’s free and works better than Skype. Lastly, Google Maps always a no-brainer as who wants to be the only person walking around with a paper map? By the way, I should note that this is actually tricky to use in Finland as cell phones die very quickly in these temperatures if your walking around holding it to guide you. Mine was very sad yesterday afternoon. I guess the formation of ice on the screen should have been a clue.

Lastly, you’ve got to love Pulla which is a sweet bread liberally sprinkled with cardamom (sometimes called cardamum). It sometimes resembles a sugary loaf and at others a long Danish pastry. Very tasty and not too sweet. However, as a local told us, “Pulla makes people fat.” I guess that was either a warning or a challenge. Another favorite is a beverage served warm called glögi. It’s a spiced drink that can be either non-alcoholic or with wine. I’ve read that it was originally used to revive postmen or workers who have been outside in the frigid cold for too long. I’m surprised that it didn’t take off in England as the weather can be dodgy all year round. Is the weather in Santa Barbara dire enough to warrant a quick glass of glögi I wonder? A slippery slope there, I fear.  

Anyway, we are enjoying all aspects of life here so far. In fact, we have a sauna and assigned weekly use schedule in our apartment building. We put this to good use a few days ago. It was our kids’ first time in the heat and they fared pretty well. Liam and I opted to do it right and so after every 20 minutes or so we went outside in our shorts and flip flops to cover ourselves with snow. It’s not as bad as you think; very refreshing to stand there steaming and red-skinned in -10’ celsius weather! I have also made a startling discovery: Kebab houses everywhere. Usually a guilty pleasure in England after a night out, but now readily available in our own backyard. Of course, now the age-old question of what type of meat exactly is it molded on to the vertical pole can be speculated upon in new country. Ah well, mystery meat is always good.

Finland: The Work Begins-Robyn

Picture: Robyn in front of the education building, University of Jyvaskyla.

Actually being in Finland after all the preparation is quite surreal. My amazing mentor picked me up having hired a car and then transported me to our new home from the airport, she even had groceries waiting to ensure an easy transition.

Our apartment is a tidy little version of ikea-A family of 4 in just over 500 sqft- with no clutter- we’ve got this. My family arrived a few days later and it is soooo good to have them here with me. We’ve never travelled separately, so everything feels complete now that they’re here.

The work has begun. I’m slated to audit 2 courses: the first on the Finnish educational system and the second on special education around the world. I have been asked to lecture on special education in America. Just like at home a large emphasis on student teacher education in Finland is on ensuring that inclusive education is meaningful. I have also been asked to speak about our U.S. educational programs at various conferences. My hope is to promote CAPTAIN (California Autism Professional Training And Information Network) and EBP (Evidence Based Practices) as much as possible.

Today, my mentor and I had a lengthy discussion about a variety of topics and I was completely “geeking out” being able to discuss topics with a well respected and like minded professional. We touched on so many areas: inclusion, government control, teacher training, instructional assistant training, IA’s roles, maintaining high standards, systematic instruction, the difference between accommodations and modifications, grants, funding, collaboration with general education teachers, litigation, and the list goes on. How absolutely wonderful it is to be able to know that this gets to be my focus for the next 6 months. My hope is that the time goes slowly in order to absorb it all.

Costa Rica: Highway 1 to Santa Elena/Monte Verde

Picture: Diary entry after scary cliff drive up to Santa Elena

After a great last breakfast at our little B&B where I again practiced my Espanol, we packed up up Raul and set off on our long drive to Monte Verde via Santa Elena. What a great drive it was. The first part took us back down the mountain to San Jose. A cyclist blew past us negotiating the treacherous switchbacks much faster than we were able (especially since I had my eyes closed most of the time…) In fact, I was more than a little worried that I was going to have to administer 1st aid when he would surely hit another vehicle head on while overtaking yet another bus or minivan. Didn’t happen though. Phew!

The next leg was along Highway 1 which is actually Costa Rica’s part of the Pan American Highway which runs from Mexico to the southern tip of Argentina. Our part of the highway was new and very easy to drive. Note: bring money for tolls. Hwy 1 eventually turned and wound past through the very busy and dirty Puntarenus coastline. The traffic built up here as Hwy 1 is mostly a one-lane road.  Then we turned off the road and headed up towards Monte Verde up in the cloud forest.

This is where the real drive began in earnest. The serpentine road made its way through lush and colorful foliage. It was not unusual to see a solitary dog standing unconcernedly in the middle of the road or standing outside a tin shack. Eventually even this small road in a typical tropical paradise gave way to a small dirt road that began to slant very steeply upwards. The final 18km (just over 11 miles) was a scary rutted/unpaved climb with steep drop offs towering hundreds of feet above coffee plantations. Tour coaches roared down at us forcing us out towards the edge in places. Definitely not the 405 freeway back in California. The layer of mist hung mysteriously over the mountain slopes hiding small figures working in the plantations. Eventually the plantations gave way to rainforest and we made it through the small, rustic, working town of Santa Elena.

Soon after we arrived in Monte Verde and were greeted by a huge picture of a colorful green frog advertising a guided night hike. The small town was perched on steep slopes and had the feel of Cairns in Australia due mainly to the rustic appearance and crowds of young travelers “doing” the ziplines. Our small B&B was perched by a school surrounded by high wire fences and with the appearance of a correctional facility. The late afternoon thunderstorms were gathering darkly filling the air with suspense as we pulled back the covers on the beds for the bedbug check ritual (all clear:) I soon found a place to buy some supplies including food and a small bottle of tequila and clear alcohol made from cane sugar. Robyn and I sat on the main building’s upstairs veranda to watch the tempest while writing in our journals and reading. The kids opted to watch the Los Simpsons in Spanish in our little room. All were thankful for the rest even as the thunder blasted the mountain.

Note: you can also take canopy tours in Santa Elena, but we wanted to wait for Monte Verde which was more kid-friendly and had a great national park also.

Jyvaskyla, Finland 1-11-19 Arrived (Meggie)

Picture: Morning Sun and Snow

While the extensive series of flights to get to Jyvaskyla were rather torturous, what awaited at the end of that last plane ride was one of the most beautiful, mystical cities I’ve ever encountered or heard of. I have only been here for one full day and have ventured out around only 5 times, but I can confidently describe the obvious magical aspect of Jyvaskyla. Perhaps it’s just my excitement of moving to a new totally different place, yet I absolutely have already formed a love for Finland. Before we left, my family made sure to read a couple of books that really showed the essence of the Finnish people. And while the books very clearly described the meritable atmosphere, I’m so glad that we get to experience it all ourselves.

The Finnish language is a lot like English in the way that depending on the person speaking, differentiates whether the language is actually pretty or not. It cracks me up every time my family attempts to pronounce some 15 letter word; Im very glad that we will be taking a Finnish language class starting next week. So far the only thing I’ve caught onto is that the Finns enunciate the first syllable the most out of the rest of the word – and that somehow the letters “jyv” make the “oo” sound.

I’m so excited to take part in the many adventures to come. I will remember to make sure to embrace every opportunity that comes our way.

Love, Meggie