Category: Our Travels

Other Journeys

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Costa Rica: Monte Verde/Selvatura Park

Picture: Meggie and Liam on an open suspension bridge leading into the rain forest

This morning we took a bus up to the rain forest to explore a section of mostly new growth in Selvatura Park. Our plan was to acclimatize ourselves to the forest and to canopy tours in general before the ‘big’ zipline experience the following day. The rain misted on and off for the next few hours, but thankfully did not turn into a tropical downpour, which at this elevation, is chillingly cold.

Note: if you do spend money to go to a tourist park or activity like ziplining, they will often send out a van or small bus to pick you up from your lodgings. However, be patient as they do make a few stops so as to have a full bus to make it worth their while.

Right at the start we heard the eerie moaning howl of some strange creatures emanating from the mist. The sound was actually quite scary and disconcerting; kind of like a cross between a bear and some diabolical monster rising from the underworld. The mist only seemed to amplify the howls while hiding the creatures. As you may have guessed, the sound comes from the aptly named howler monkeys that forage in this area each day. We never did see them though.

The walk itself was great. Every tree was covered in moss and there were a multitude of other nameless plants hanging and and creeping all over. The sheer amount of plants were mind-boggling. I particularly enjoyed seeing wild orchids and other parasitic plants nestled into the spongy trunks of towering trees. Clouds and mist wafted past cool on our cheeks as crossed several huge hanging bridges amongst the trees. Some of these bridges were 500 feet long and over 100 feet above the ground. The air was cool and moist and the light was muted by the canopy overhead. We all loved the gently swaying bridges and the feeling of being up among the treetops.

Returning back to our little room, we ate a simple lunch and napped for a while recovering from the loss of sleep that sometimes presents itself in a new place with new sounds (especially a powerful thunderstorm and hours-long deluge from the night before). When we felt sufficiently rested we decided to try and find a massive hollow climbing tree that another young family had told us about this morning during breakfast. We had the general location of the tree in a section of woods on the edge of town, and had to look for one that towered above all others. We walked up steep little roads among b&b’s, small hotels and a variety of small homes. As we got close, a brown dog of dubious pedigree but friendly demeanor hauled itself up from its siesta in its owner’s front yard and led the way into the woods and onto each trailhead as we searched. The dog was a character and kind of matter of fact in his assumed role of guide. We found the tree in the middle of the humid forest and we all had a little climbing trial. I say trial as we were all a little perturbed by the thought of poisonous snakes and spiders that may be lurking in the shadows. This was of course our first experience being off trail in a tropical country and we hadn’t yet become used to it. The kids did great climbing and hanging. It was possible to climb way up inside or even all the way up on the outside as old vines had wrapped themselves around the entire span of the trunk. The dog waited patiently. Eventually we decided to head back to our b&b. When we returned down the road, our canine guide simply walked off to his property as though this was an everyday occurrence. Actually, we were sure it was!

Back at the b&b, Robyn and I laid out a map of Costa Rica and tentatively formed a plan of attack for the next 6 weeks. We’d started to notice that these tourist places were seemed to be mostly only really good for a few days as everything is geared towards tourists on buses from resorts or tours with money to burn and searching for the extreme experiences that Costa Rica offers. In other words, most people go on a tour to “do” the ziplines, or whitewater rafting, etc. Although this is fun and we also wanted to participate a little, it was not the basis of our trip. We wanted to really immerse ourselves in this lush country and to fully experience everything; the good, the bad, and the ugly. Added to which, we were going to have to do it on a super tight budget. Luckily for us, whenever we go anywhere we would rather do things that were free, although this could be a tad limiting. That’s why our kids have very low expectations as to being bought stuff. However, according to our tentative plan, we would still have up to 3 weeks relaxing by the beach near national parks after we’d circled and explored the entire country. Nice! Next up, a full-blown zipline (well, we have to, right?) and then on to the cloud forest (old-growth full of exotic fauna and flora) before heading to Essence near Arinal which would be lower in elevation.

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Costa Rica: Highway 1 to Santa Elena/Monte Verde

Picture: Diary entry after scary cliff drive up to Santa Elena

After a great last breakfast at our little B&B where I again practiced my Espanol, we packed up up Raul and set off on our long drive to Monte Verde via Santa Elena. What a great drive it was. The first part took us back down the mountain to San Jose. A cyclist blew past us negotiating the treacherous switchbacks much faster than we were able (especially since I had my eyes closed most of the time…) In fact, I was more than a little worried that I was going to have to administer 1st aid when he would surely hit another vehicle head on while overtaking yet another bus or minivan. Didn’t happen though. Phew!

The next leg was along Highway 1 which is actually Costa Rica’s part of the Pan American Highway which runs from Mexico to the southern tip of Argentina. Our part of the highway was new and very easy to drive. Note: bring money for tolls. Hwy 1 eventually turned and wound past through the very busy and dirty Puntarenus coastline. The traffic built up here as Hwy 1 is mostly a one-lane road.  Then we turned off the road and headed up towards Monte Verde up in the cloud forest.

This is where the real drive began in earnest. The serpentine road made its way through lush and colorful foliage. It was not unusual to see a solitary dog standing unconcernedly in the middle of the road or standing outside a tin shack. Eventually even this small road in a typical tropical paradise gave way to a small dirt road that began to slant very steeply upwards. The final 18km (just over 11 miles) was a scary rutted/unpaved climb with steep drop offs towering hundreds of feet above coffee plantations. Tour coaches roared down at us forcing us out towards the edge in places. Definitely not the 405 freeway back in California. The layer of mist hung mysteriously over the mountain slopes hiding small figures working in the plantations. Eventually the plantations gave way to rainforest and we made it through the small, rustic, working town of Santa Elena.

Soon after we arrived in Monte Verde and were greeted by a huge picture of a colorful green frog advertising a guided night hike. The small town was perched on steep slopes and had the feel of Cairns in Australia due mainly to the rustic appearance and crowds of young travelers “doing” the ziplines. Our small B&B was perched by a school surrounded by high wire fences and with the appearance of a correctional facility. The late afternoon thunderstorms were gathering darkly filling the air with suspense as we pulled back the covers on the beds for the bedbug check ritual (all clear:) I soon found a place to buy some supplies including food and a small bottle of tequila and clear alcohol made from cane sugar. Robyn and I sat on the main building’s upstairs veranda to watch the tempest while writing in our journals and reading. The kids opted to watch the Los Simpsons in Spanish in our little room. All were thankful for the rest even as the thunder blasted the mountain.

Note: you can also take canopy tours in Santa Elena, but we wanted to wait for Monte Verde which was more kid-friendly and had a great national park also.

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Day 2- Poás Volcano N.P/Vera Blanca General Vicinity-Stu

Picture: Meg enjoying the power of the cascade 1/2 way up the slope overlooking the waterfall near Vera Blanca

Cold! The night had been a chilly one which we should have anticipated due to the altitude.

We’d been socked in by the busy clouds racing up and over the ridges all day. It made for a great morning walk as we meandered along the farm tracks out back of our B & B. Interestingly, the scenery was very similar to that of English farmland complete with cows and eye-aching greenery (at least to those of us who are used to the brown hues of summer California). It was good to get the blood pumping as we walked up some very steep trails. Definitely felt the altitude. Walked over to the signposted Lecheria, but didn’t see anyone around except some bored bovines.

Later in the day we drove Raul down to a craggy waterfall a few miles outside Vera Blanca that tumbled down from a cliff that had to be easily 100-150 feet high. We stood at the bottom buffeted as much by the noise of the cascade as well the actual spray. The lush greenery clung defiantly to the cliffside right up to the water creating a very pretty picture. A little up the hill, there was a cool-looking water garden tourist trap where for a hefty fee it’s possible to see the waterfall from higher up, enjoy a fancy dinner, and explore the other attractions. Large, fancy coaches waited outside in lines. We opted for the free backpacker style encounter, and were totally satisfied.

By now, our meager traveling supplies augmented by breakfast at the B&B were almost gone. I’d been looking for a grocery store since we left San Jose and had yet to find one. I left Robyn and the kids and started driving through the village and out towards a bigger town I’d noticed beckoning on the map. 45 minutes later, I still hadn’t gotten there and was about to turn around when I saw a small store on the side of the road. I pulled in and walked into the gloom of the dirt-floored establishment. The shelves were nearly all empty although there was an ample supply of tinned sardines, some chips, a few eggs, a tube of black bean paste, and a few tortillas. I bought some of the eggs, beans, and tortillas and was very pleased to find an onion and a pepper in a corner. Success! I then noticed a bottle of Liqueur de Aranja which I guessed was some kind of orange-flavored alcohol. Good enough, I thought. I paid up and went home feeling like my first foray into the depths of Costa Rica was successful as I’d managed to secure enough food (just about) to feed us all. The total cost was about $2.50. In addition, I’d managed to have a conversation of sorts in Spanish with the lovely abuela behind the counter. By the way, I was glad to have expected that no-one would speak English and had been practicing my Spanish diligently. I was now able to apologize for butchering their language.

Another ritual was born that evening, too. After eating an early dinner, we all wrote in our journals until there was not enough daylight to see, then sat back on couch within the relative safety of our little cabin (which by the way shook with every clap of thunder and blast of lightning) and listened to the astonishing pyrotechnics of the nightly thunderstorm while the rain drilled away at the roof. Meg wondered where the little kitten was while I wondered if the cabin was going to float off the mountain…

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Poás Volcano National Park

Poás Volcano National Park

Our first stop was a small motel with rustic A-frame cabins nestled in and amongst lush trees and brimming with colorful hydrangeas. Surrounded by rolling grassy hills, we chose it because it was a both a short drive from San Jose and close to the active(ish) Poás Volcano National Park. The owners kindly allowed us to check in early and we gratefully piled into our little home for much-needed rest. Our first observation was that there are two main truths about buildings in Costa Rica: first, there is often no hot water. Second, there are very few lights. I guess the Costa Ricans like natural light and don’t need so much hot water as we soft Americans (and English, I suppose). Still, we became used to cold water showers which were great in the hotter lower elevations. That first night up in the mountains was a bit of a shock. Characters were built!

Before we left for the Volcano, Meggie managed to befriend a small ginger and black patched kitten. The little chap followed the kids around and even joined us for breakfast in the restaurant. Smart animal. When we left the next day, we had to check Raul and Meg’s bags to make sure that she wasn’t hiding a small orange stow away. Robyn and I really had to step up our language skills as for nearly the entirety of our stay in Costa Rica we were unable to speak English as no one else understood it. I really enjoyed this, and although I relished practicing my Espanol, I sometimes needed Google translate. In fact, quite often the local people who were enduring my attempts at speaking their language actually put an end to my misery by taking my phone and typing in what I was trying to say, or what they needed me to know. Awesome!

The volcano and national park were amazing. Several of the trails were closed due to mudflow and, occasionally, gasses I think. We were visiting during a time when there are huge storms almost every night. A local told me sometime later that this was not the official rainy season. You could have fooled me-the nightly storms were astonishing in their power and were a constant source of wonder for all of us. We made our way along verdant mountain trails to the caldera that nestled a few hundred feet below the observation point. Milky blue liquid lurked somewhat menacingly amongst clouds of steam and steadily gas leaking out. It was invigorating and a little scary to think that we were so close to a volcano that had shaped the local topography and had caused mayhem to people during years past. The visitors’ center was informative and showed how the local terrain had been shaped by the volcano over the past few thousand years. As impressive, at least to us, was the array of different plants such as the huge elephant ear plants with leaves 3 feet across. These could easily be employed as umbrellas. Unseen birds shrieked eerily from the forest as we trudged back to Raul  in the light rain tired but happy. Great first day!

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LAX to San Jose, Costa Rica-The Adventure Begins

LAX to San Jose, Costa Rica-The Adventure Begins

As often happens on our foreign travels, I am always relieved when I shakily climb out of the car or shuttle, and actually set foot on the curb of Los Angeles International Airport. This is because the most dangerous part of the trip, navigating the treacherous freeways that dissect Southern California and which become supremely tangled in L.A., is comparable to the carnage seen at the chariot races in ancient Rome. Indeed, the only difference I think is the available horsepower and longer pants. Still, surviving the trip to the airport is all part of the fun and prepares us for anything and everything from that point on. This trip saw me doubly confident as it was my father in law who actually drove us…you would probably recognize him as the guy in the Lexus SUV who makes his own driving rules (wait, isn’t that everyone who owns a Lexus SUV?) Enough said. We caught our red-eye flight to San Jose International Airport in Costa Rica and arrived without further incident or sleep.

Arriving from the ocean in the early morning is a great way to experience the overwhelming green ruggedness of Costa Rica. Near the mountains and at an elevation of nearly 4,000 feet, San Jose was veiled by a thin mist that partially hid the patchwork of corrugated tin roofs and added to its allure as we descended to the runway. We left the airport and made our way to our rental car via taxi. We were a little disoriented and the rush hour traffic was gaining volume as we snaked in and out of lanes full of cars and motorcycles. Robyn had booked a small 4-wheel drive jeep online for a good deal, but we had to arrange insurance when we got there. There is, we found out, a mandatory $1,000 fee for less than basic coverage in Costa Rica (the same as many latin American countries as we later found out). The rental guys seemed sincere when they told us that it really wasn’t worth the money as we would basically be covered for nothing more than spilling coffee on the upholstery. In the case of an actual accident, we would be entirely liable for all mechanical and medical coverage for ourselves and the other party. Of course this was terrifying for us as we were on a very tight budget as it was. The actual cost of adequate insurance would be $1400. A GPS would be thrown in free of charge. I looked up this information online, and found out that it was accurate and that travelers are encouraged to pay and thus drive with more security. We paid and drove off on our adventure. The moment we pulled into traffic in our little white jeep we came to affectionately name “Raul,” I knew that we’d made the right decision. Not only are the roads in Costa Rica not in the best of shape (even if paved), the drivers are all like my father in law (gulp). In addition, there is a quite high crime rate in Costa Rica and we would be heading way off the beaten path far from police, hospitals, and paved roads quite often. Any security is immediately valuable and welcome.

I drove carefully bathed in sweat trusting our GPS which we compared to a road map from the rental agency for accuracy. We wound our way through narrow streets comprised of lots of low one or two-story buildings with colorful if faded and peeling concrete walls, bars on the windows, and capped with rusting tin roofs. We saw small houses arranged like compounds surrounded by walls, bars, and barbed wire. The people bustled around as they do in any city, and my eye started to decipher the Spanish road and store signs. We made one turn at a large intersection (thankfully, I didn’t stall Raul’s engine with my rusty stick-shift driving skills) passed a large bus and went around a horse and cart, and…Voila: the mountains climbed ahead of us dark, green, and draped in vaporous mists of lightly falling rain. Banana trees and brightly blossomed plants replaced telegraph poles and we instantly felt like we were in the real Costa Rica, home of great coffee and riotous parrots.

Our radio pulsed out very mellow songs from the 80’s and 90’s interspersed with some lively pop songs from the same era. Every so often our thoughtful little GPS friend would send out a “dangerous bridge ahead” warning which we initially interpreted as some kind of rickety rope or log bridge propped above a swirling river of death. However, we soon learned that the danger was not so much because the bridge was narrow and usually placed at the bottom of a narrow ravine where the rivers were sometimes swollen by the rains (it was), but that the danger came from people hurtling along seemingly without a care, or with their eyes closed like me. It truly felt like we were in Jurassic Park as the buildings disappeared and the jungle closed in. Very cool!