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St. Petersburg, Russia-Stu

There are times when it is sensible to follow the path of least resistance and make life easy even if it goes against our typical down and dirty rough-style of travel.  I’m talking about taking a tour. Our destination: St. Petersburg, Russia. After a lot of research both online and anecdotal from other visitors, we realized that taking an overnight ferry and booking a tour through them provides a 72-hour visa free visit along with all the entry and departure cards provided.  Best of all the tour guide waits to collect you the other side of the rather intimidating customs. This sounded good for a first foray.

We booked our trip via Moby/St. Peter Line on on the SS Anastasia, a jauntily painted ferry that boasts 8 decks, entertainment, a great breakfast and dinner buffet with self-serve beer and wine, duty free shop and movies.  There was even a wonderful sauna/gym/pool area on the lowest deck. There were many different nationalities represented on board and we were not surprised that many of them have very different expectations regarding waiting in line for tickets or buffets, etc.  By this I mean they won’t. Still, Finland has taught me patience and this won through in the end (along with strategic body positioning). We all enjoyed the buffet food and liked to taste local delicacies such as caviar and a multitude of fish dishes.

Entering any country by water is a real treat for me, and I was struck by the amount of lush green foliage that adorned the breakwater of St. Petersburg harbor.  This soon gave way to a huge and rather grim industrial area that was impressive in part because of its extent, but also because of the diversity of the vessels being loaded or unloaded in the many broad channels.  We’d traded our tour cards for actual tickets on board and were shepherded down several corridors cutting ahead of the rest of the passengers waiting to disembark eventually finding ourselves almost first in line for customs.  Although I was expecting stern visages and probing questions as many others have experienced, including a man in front of a friend of mine being suddenly taken away on their visit, my customs officers were quite friendly.

Our tour guide was a teacher and part time employee of the Hermitage Museum and gave us a very good tour of the city on a comfortable, modern coach.  She warned us about pickpockets at every stop, but none of us had any difficulties. We did witness a three person hand off of something while returning to the bus at the square in front of Isaac’s Cathedral. The whole situation was a little dodgy and as I was with my family and did not see any police officers anywhere, I decided to keep quiet.  Other stops included St. Andrews Church, the Church of the Bloodletting, the good luck sphinxes and griffons by the river, and a tourist trap that sold chachkis after giving out free vodka (it was actually tasty). By far the best part though was the huge Hermitage Museum which is part of and adjacent to Catherine the Great’s Winter Palace.  With around 3 million art exhibits, it is a true wonder and a major stop in the city. Get there early though as it is always busy. The city itself was surprising as architecturally it could have been Copenhagen or even Stockholm, not the grim communist block decor I was naively expecting.

Exhausted by the long day, back on board Robyn and I had a celebratory vodka.  Later we returned the waves of excited children leaning out of the tall run-down tenement buildings that huddle near the harbor entrance and to the folks fishing along the breakwater as our floating behemoth slid past.  It was a strangely moving experience as it provided a human aspect counterpoint to our day filled with the overbearing luxurious indulgence of monarchs. Our guide had told us that there are thousands of communal apartments in St. Petersburg; places where up to half a dozen families share a single kitchen and bathroom.  Yet even though the people waving to us appeared happy and content, I wondered what life must be like in this modern Russia.

Note: St. Petersburg has the reputation of being ground zero for identity theft, as well as having a pickpocket problem.  It is advisable to take a tour or if out touring alone, to make sure of sticking to main streets. Customs can be a challenge, even without a visa because of the tour, we still needed a landing and departure card as well as another permit. Restaurants and stores take credit cards, but it is advisable to use cash (rubles are the main currency, although fellow passengers said that they used euros and even dollars).  One ruble equals about 14 U.S. cents. Cell phones should be on airplane mode and have cellular and data turned off to prevent identity theft.

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Wishes for Home-Robyn

Prior to departing the U.S., I received a multitude of suggestions about how to proceed with regards to my research project. However, one of the best pieces of advice was to write write write. I began the very first week in Finland thus by now I have accrued a lengthy journal of Fulbright experiences. Within this online “spiral notebook” there was a meaningful sub category of bullet points added at random entitled Wishes for Home. As our time in Finland is coming to an end, I find myself having more and more reflective conversations with colleagues, educators, advisors, even random strangers while waiting in line at customs, and our new Finnish friends. It is now fitting to share, but please note these are just some of my Wishes for Home.

  • Creating a staff room befitting a professional
  • Maintaining a work life balance
  • Listen more
  • Respect other’s time without the rush
  • Collaborate and negotiate working through challenges
  • Trust
  • Earn a doctoral degree
  • Hän- the inclusive Finnish pronoun that stands for equal opportunity (avoid the stigma of hierarchy)
  • Autonomy: Just do
  • Acknowledge that one did enough work for today
  • Create an environment where both students and adults are at peace
  • Inspire colleagues
  • All team members have a right to be highly trained
  • Implement best practices with fidelity
  • To influence attitudes you have to actively participate in the changes
  • Discussion of values is critical and change occurs when aligned with an action plan
  • Important information and professional developments warrant meaningful advertising to reach target audience
  • Show how inclusion is beneficial- then the talented and dedicated will want in
  • Just the positives; sometimes that’s all that needs to be shared
  • Take the time to experience then REFLECT
  • Sisu
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The Russian Experience-Meggie

My family’s most recent trip was to Russia.  It was a very memorable trip filled with interesting and incredible experiences, and some funny moments that I’m sure to never forget.

We were forewarned before our trip that there was an extensive amount of pic-pockets and other small organized crime such as identity theft that we should be aware of.  We all had to turn off our cellular data and put our phones on airplane mode. We decided it was safest for us to go on a tour that provided a safe way to travel and learn about the history of the city we went to St. Petersburg.  It was especially memorable due to the extravagant beauty of the buildings and the intense history. It was interesting to learn about the place where some of my ancestors came from and what happened in history around the time that they left for the United States.  

One funny moment was when I was waiting in line behind this elderly lady.  Up came a man who tried to cut her place in line (this was nothing unusual as my family found out throughout the trip).  However, this particular elderly lady would have none of it and she very dramatically raised her hand and slapped him on his arm.  He surrendered and returned to the back of the line shamefaced.

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Trip to Russia-Blog by Liam

As you read in the title, the past few days have been spent in Russia. My mom really wanted to go and just see and come back. We booked a ferry there and a bus tour of the city. By doing this I was able to learn the history of the city and its composition. We do not usually go on tours because as I figured out that it is almost like going to a zoo- just sitting on a bus looking out at the “strange people” exhibits, and getting off to take pictures (which you can find online). We also visited museums (although I can see why people like them). The overnight on the ferry was interesting and a fun experience.  I liked walking around the ship and being on a huge structure. The food was very good, and it was nice to have reliable meal times. It was different to be around more outgoing Russians rather than the introverted Finns.

Anyways, I had a lot of fun and it was nice to be near the ocean again.

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English Invasion-Stu

Never one for taking anyone’s word for things, my good friend Ron from England took time to come and see where we’d been living the last five months or so. We met up in Helsinki and toured a few watering holes some more lively than others. Note: Czech bars-good! Irish bars-not so much, although this could be due to our English accents causing friction. Anyway, our focus was to catch up after not visiting for a few years, and this we did.

Ronnie decided to break his English reserve and visit the Alas sauna down at the harbor in Helsinki which has 3 outside pools, one of which is filtered and unheated water from the Baltic Sea. A party of Japanese tourists entered the sauna before us wearing swimwear which by default gave us the excuse of doing so also. I’ve never witnessed a look of relief as profound as that moment on my friend’s face!  We also took avantu in the unheated sea pool which although being the start of June, is still exquisitely frigid. My only goal was to immerse myself and enjoy the sisu that comes from such a challenge. Ron’s was to not run out screaming like the other tourists…He did well!

In Jyvaskyla, my good friend got to see my kids who had grown from little guys into young adults since we last spent time together. In fact, it was good to see our little town here in Finland through his eyes. Some experiences, like hiking in the nearby forest were beautiful and serene. Others, such as the Finnish line dancing event, were a little odd and confusing. We did like the country version of ACDC tunes everyone was dancing to onstage, although the spectators were silent and still. Ronnie was surprised by the lack of noise and facial expressions, but took it in stride. Liam and Ron jammed with ukuleles one day. We also swam and enjoyed the sun at the lake, toured the town, played pool, and tasted lots of Finnish foods. Of course, right now we are enjoying long days due to only perhaps 3 hours of actual darkness. This means that a person hardly wants to sleep. It does promote lots of time to talk, though.  With hardly any visitors who speak English, Ronnie found himself somewhat of a captive audience for our household…

Although Robyn was not in town to participate, it was good to reconnect with my friend of 34 years and have some deeper conversations like our hosts, the Finns.  

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Encounters-Meg

I have had many nicknames, some of them are a little too silly and embarrassing to write down at the moment. But this past week, I’ve been given a nickname that I have a love/hate relationship with. Snow White. I dislike it because of its negative connotation of my lack of tan from being in the winter for so long. However, I also love it because it also was used to describe the fact that wild animals seem to love coming up and saying hello to me. For example, there were three hares maybe a touch more than 4 meters from me while I was heading back home from a long walk. I stopped and looked at them without eye contact and they in unison decided to scamper in zigzags over to me, they sniffed at my feet, looked up at me, and then ran off together.  These interactions with nature have encouraged me to take more photographs of what I see around me when I’m out and about.

One funny thing happened yesterday that I feel is a great representation of the Finnish character. I was given a lollipop and my brother some candy by a fundraiser I couldn’t catch the name of while my dad, brother, and I were walking through town. Of course, I happily accepted and popped it straight into my mouth. A few minutes later, I find this little girl in a stroller rolling by, she too had a lollipop. She so very nonchalantly raised her lollipop and her eyebrow with a little smile in a way of saying cheers. It’s hard to describe how comical this (probably) three year old’s expression was- but it did make my day; I am sure I will remember this every time I reflect back to my time in Finland.

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Blog by Liam .Y 6/08/19

I have been baking with my grandma for a few years, but while I have been here (in Finland) I have been experimenting with different recipes for breakfast foods ie. pancakes and French toast. I came upon a simple for pretzels as they are one of my favorite foods. They combine bread which is amazing and you can choose if you want sweet topping or just regular salt. So, I tried it and it turned out pretty well.

On another note, my dad’s friend came to visit us. We went to the local pub and snooker hall. I have only played a few times before so my dad had to teach me some basics. Five games and one glass of sprite later, it was time for us to head back to our apartment.

There has been a heat wave for the past several days with temperatures into the mid 80’s. So today, me and my family went to the lake and rented a canoe. It has been ages since we have been in a canoe or kayak. We had a lot of fun. I also just graduated from the sixth grade. Next year I will be moving to a different school.

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Dad

Finland has welcomed us with their kindness, caring, and welcoming actions. However, their sharing of emotions is quite contradictory to my typical use of vivid facial expressions. I’m very aware that my face gives it all away. This week I especially felt very unFinnish as I filtered through many visible emotional extremes.

It began with the much anticipated arrival of my moms visit. We were all counting down the days preparing for her stay. She arrived smiling but weary at the tiny airport in Jyväskylä. So great to see her and ready to embark on some good old fashion quality family time while introducing her to the wonders of our temporary home in Finland. Unfortunately, soon after her arrival we were hit with the devastating news that my father had become gravely ill.

Being thousands of miles away with over a 26 hours of travel between us means it has been incredibly difficult to not be by his side. My amazing brothers, aunt, and his partner were quick to be by his side and they all kept me posted every step of the way. Across the miles I whispered goodbyes, face timed, prayed, and cried…a lot. What does a child do when they can’t be by their parent’s bedside? This feeling of helplessness is far from comfortable. We looked up flights, started to pack, reached out to colleagues, contacted insurance companies, and made a plan. We are ready to fly home at a moment’s notice. It feels like holding one’s breath. If you’ve ever met my dad you know that aside from his intelligence and kindness he is wonderfully stubborn which is a good thing.

~Robyn

Dad Part II

This past week I went home to be with my dad. It was a quick journey bookmarked by 2 days of 26 hours of travel each way. However, being able to sit by my dad’s side filled our hearts and souls with the nourishment needed to recover from the scare of the past few weeks.

My brother had picked me up at the airport and I literally ran through the last stage of the customs rigamarole to give him and my niece a much needed hug. Despite the late hour we drove to be by dad’s side and with tears of emotion streaming down my face I knew I had made the right decision to come back. My dad and his entire family are indebted to the incredible doctors who saved his life. He has a long way to go, but there was even improvement during my short stay and he is completely committed to following doctor’s orders. His entire medical team is extraordinary, I had never encountered such a kind, patient, knowledgeable, caring, and hard working team.

Knowing he is in good hands, I felt comfortable to return back to Finland and complete this Fulbright experience with peace and a slightly altered perspective.  I am incredibly grateful to Fulbright for supporting this decision and for keeping my dad in their thoughts.


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The Simple Life-What’s Really Important?-Stu

Cottage on Seurassari Island

There are times when it is good to be reminded of what is truly important and necessary in life, painful though this can be.  As we explored the rustic wooden cottages on beautiful Seurassari Island and Open-Air Museum in Helsinki this weekend, we were all struck by the simplicity of life in bygone eras demonstrated by the spartan interiors lacking many “essentials” we enjoy today.  The fixtures and fittings were basic yet often multi-functional and ingenious. Many of the cottages, brought from various regions all over Finland to be preserved, were very small abodes for peaceful visits to lakesides far from towns and cities. Others were larger multi-generational family log cabins originally homesteads or tenant farms.  All were built by their owners and demonstrated a lifestyle at once both harder and simpler than our often fast-paced modern lives. Docents clad in period clothing explained who had inhabited the buildings and shared some insights of functionality and customs. Many of the homes had multiple generations and in-laws all living together which must have been interesting during the long Finnish winters and the highs and lows of typical human lives.

And yet, the reminder of being close to family never seemed as important to our little four family as we hosted Robyn’s mom these past five days.  Back in California, Robyn’s dad suddenly struggled with a very serious health issue and we came very close to leaving to be by his side. We all lived hour by hour on both sides of the world. Thankfully, family rallied around and Robyn’s dad’s strong will served him well. I’m glad to say that he is now beginning to improve and recover.

Last night we all took time to write down five-ten positive things we’ve noticed or experienced about Finland and put them in a bowl.  This was passed around and we took turns reading out the thoughts of others. We’d decided that we wanted to reflect on what we’d experienced in order to make our life back home both simpler and as meaningful as possible.  This activity was the part of this process, and interestingly, there were not any mentions of things or stuff; it was all about ways of being.  Interactions with people, especially family, friends, and those around us were prominent, as was our relationship with nature.  Personal choices and conduct also featured for us.

For me, the Finns have taught that although they don’t really engage in frivolous surface chit-chat, they really value deeper connections and meaningful interactions with those dear to them.  There is a kindness, patience, and non-judgmental side to their down to earth demeanor that is very refreshing and endearing. Our brush with mortality this weekend while somewhat offset by the close proximity of Robyn’s mom, was a tough but powerful reminder of what is truly important.  I hope that although we will likely not all be living under the same roof (including my family back in England) we can still enjoy deep and valuable connections with each other and those around us while being the highest version of our best selves.

Meg taking photos
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Introducing our Grandma to Finland

We were consistently excited for the arrival of our grandmother (Gogo to family members) for weeks, up until the day she came. Gogo was our first guest and we were anxious to show her around our new home. It was both a weird and fun experience to not be the foreigners for once, and instead the guides in Finland. It was fun to see her point of view in different matters because even though we have been here for a while, there are many mysteries here that are yet unsolved.

We planned out an entire itinerary due to our excitement. THe first few days in Jyvaskyla were spent cooking traditional Finnish dishes and going on walks around town to give her a feel of the city. We also introduced her to our Fulbright friends which induced some very interesting in-depth conversations. We then took a train over to Helsinki which was good to show her the capital. We went to places such as the community center/library (Oodi) and the local flea market as well as many historical sites and museums. We figured that this visit provided a wide range of sites to show her the history and overall vibe of Finland.

During this wonderful time spent with our grandmother, our grandfather became very sick. He’s going to be okay and our thoughts and love are with him always.