It’s time to say goodbye. The past 7 months in this beautiful country have been INSPIRING.
Kiitos ja näkemiin
World perspectives through the eyes of an everyday family
It’s time to say goodbye. The past 7 months in this beautiful country have been INSPIRING.
Kiitos ja näkemiin
24 years ago, in the summer following my college graduation, I enrolled in a summer course with the experimental theater department through the University of Amsterdam. It was a transformative experience, especially as it was my first time living abroad. A treasured memory was all the time I was able to spend at Vondelpark. I was excited to share this special place within this fascinating city with my family. When we arrived in Amsterdam, I struggled with how much had changed in 24 years. However, I was adamant about taking my family through this beautiful park and once there, the memories from all those years ago came flooding back. Peace
Saturday evening during the summer in Amsterdam is a fun place to find yourself, especially if you have a somewhat swanky hotel to return to when hot and footsore. We’d decided to book a room at the Doubletree Hotel perched as it is between the train station and the cruise ship terminal and adjacent to the old town of Amsterdam-a short walk everywhere, in other words. The old town area hosts the infamous redlight district which proved to be more understated than I’d thought it would be; nice when you’re traveling with kids. We’d previously explained the accepting nature of Amsterdam to our two, but our tour guide from the Freedamtour did a much better job than we did incorporating much history into the modern day version of the city. As it turned out, the bars and coffee shops were much livelier filled with seemingly every Brit the UK had spare. The aromas of good food, beer, cigarettes, and certain natural ‘herb’ products competed in the hot sun of the lively streets parallel to the tranquil canals and the cool shade of narrow intriguing alleyways. A myriad of boats cruised the miles of canals: tour boats, beer boats, bachelorette parties, and locals enjoying the sights from their own smaller craft.
As the day wore on and the temperature rose to the mid 90’s, we enjoyed the cooler air of indoor cafes and the amazing Anne Frank museum (a must see). The combination of old-world history from medieval times through the ages to the present day life of the city was wonderful to experience. When we finally staggered back to our hotel and enjoyed the free hors d’oeuvres, deserts, and drinks, the banks of Amstel River was teeming with overheated young people doing what they do best when filled with the delights of the city in high summer temperatures-namely hurling themselves off the dock into the questionable yet cool water. What a great day!
Before we left the city, we took a canal tour with the Lover tour group which was excellent; toured several open-air markets; enjoyed a neighborhood summer block party (checked off the pommes-frites with mayonnaise and a welcome Heineken beer); and visited Vondelpark, the last being one of the places Robyn remembered from a summer dance class 24 years previously. We logged many miles in this lovely city and enjoyed every one of them.
Holland
On the days before our cruise we spent some time in the very lively city of Amsterdam. In comparison to the very quiet and peaceful way of life that we became used to in Finland, this was quite a shock to us all. There was so much going on and while we sort of hate to admit it, Amsterdam was the perfect place for people watching – don’t lie, we know you do it too. Similar to a lot of cities in Europe, although most weren’t to this extent, Amsterdam’s most common architecture was from hundreds of years ago. We visited many must-to destinations, but nothing was really as important to our family as the Anne Frank museum. Hearing her story as well as visiting the very rooms her family and four others hid in during the Holocaust was very moving and powerful. We both agree that it was overwhelmingly horrible for someone our age, who had she been born in our time period could have easily have been friends with, went through unspeakable events.
Norway
The first thing we want to say was that Norway is extremely beautiful, think of where perhaps a fairy or some other mythical creature would live, we can promise you that you’ve just thought of the gorgeous forests in Norway. It’s probably clear to say that a family favourite activity of ours was to go on hikes outside of each city we briefly visited while on our trip. The crystal clear fjords were surprisingly deep and so magical to see in real life (this is where we came up with the fairy reference). We started our trip by visiting the capital of Norway, Oslo, which while it was crowded had a very calm vibe. In contrast, another town we visited was a seaside town called Eidfjord in the famous Hardanger Fjord with only 1,000 residents. As we worked our way up the country we discovered that we didn’t see ourselves as tourists, rather touring the country instead. It was confusing to understand how we all felt this way – separate from the other “tourists”. Perhaps it’s because we didn’t want to be associated with the loud, overly dressed, fannypack wearing people (whose only interaction with the country are organized excursions) that we went on the cruise with. Although to an outsider, they probably wouldn’t recognize any difference between these tourists and our family.
Cruise
The cruise was an experience we never really pictured our family partaking in. From the all-you-can eat buffets, the fancy pools, the special entertainment, and the fine dining, we couldn’t believe how everything was already planned out and ready for us. A traveler’s dream come true. Even with all the activities available, one of our favourite things to do on the ship was find a comfy place with a beautiful view of the ocean to just sit, relax, and read. Our average day often started with waking up early for a work out in the gym then meeting for breakfast (although it was hard, we made healthy choices so we could have a treat at the end of the day if we so craved). There were plenty of games for our family to play including shuffleboard and ping pong. The cruise was a great way to end our long trip with relaxation, and overall a stress-free and fun environment.
This week we finally reached midsummer and for people living this far north, that means there is no real darkness at night only a gloomy light as on a cloudy overcast day. It’s interesting because we are all feeling energized at the wrong times of the day. For example, with sunshine beaming in through the windows, it feels like lunchtime even though it’s actually 10 or even 11pm. And if you stay up past midnight, any thoughts of sleep are out the window and the new day has begun!
Midsummer in Europe was traditionally a very exciting pagan pre-Christian celebration. In England, it was known as Litha and in modern times is a focus for the balance of the elements water and fire. In pagan Finland, midsummer was referred to as Ukko’s Celebration named in honor of a powerful Finnish god. There are many interesting rituals and superstitions related to midsummer here. For example, many people would have a bonfire and celebrate with friends and family-the bonfire would hopefully ward off any evil spirits that came snooping around. Maidens could collect a bunch of nine different flower blooms and put them under their pillow when they finally went to bed to hopefully bring forth a dream of their future husband. Those girls who were more determined could even use the increase of earth magic to create potions to snare a mate at midsummer. Another Finnish folk tale states that if wandering out in the forest, a person should keep a good eye out for eerie glow of a will-o-the wisp which if spotted and followed would lead them to hidden treasure. Likewise, observing a fern in bloom was supposed to bring fortune and magic to the lucky finder.
For us, the town of Jyvaskyla emptied out for the weekend and sadly bonfires had been banned for fear of wildfires due to dry conditions (a serious threat when almost every square inch of dry land seems to be a dense forest-a modern battle to balance water and fire, I wonder?). We opted for a lake cruise on the Rhea followed by a midnight swim in our local lake. Many Finns leave town to head to their small cottages in order to enjoy the peace and tranquility that comes with communing with nature. As our boat left Jyvasjarvi and negotiated a small canal leading into the very large lake systems that lead a hundred plus miles south towards Helsinki, we noticed dozens of small cottages each prettier than the last peeking out of the forest and across the water. Some were even the sole inhabitants of tiny islands that frequently dotted the water. Many had small docks, but the majority were simply there without any fancy bells and whistles way off the beaten track; a simple place for the owners to relax.
After nearly four hours, our boat, now filled with tipsy and happy passengers (the bars did a good amount of business) disembarked. The sun was closer to the horizon now that it was 11pm and the air was chillier as we rode our bikes to our favorite swimming beach. There were several groups of people young and old sitting in groups picnicking, or playing guitars and chatting good naturedly. One group of young people had a small, defiant bonfire blazing and the fragrant smell of birch smoke drifted across the beach as we waded into the dark water. The evening was timeless and we could have slipped back hundreds of years. Our time here is almost at an end, and we all took a moment to think about where we’ve been and the things we’ve done the past six months, as well as to look ahead to the adjustment of returning home. This special night was a good one for our family even if we didn’t sacrifice a bull or two or even find some treasure. I guess the treasure is the experience we’ve all shared during our time here.
I am incredibly grateful for the partnership Fulbright had arranged during my time in Finland. I first met Dr. Raija Pirttimaa via email which stated that she was to be my host at the University of Jyvaskyla. As soon as I googled her, up popped several of her articles referencing some of the most influential topics and professionals of special education and inclusion. From the moment she greeted me at our tiny airport to emails she continues to send, we have been the perfect fit. She led the way to so many opportunities and discussions and I embraced each one with gusto. Two of Raija’s researchers quickly became friends, colleagues, collaborators, and hopefully future Fulbrighters. We know that we will continue these conversations with our global perspectives in special education and inclusion. As we say our goodbyes with tears in our eyes, we know this time together has been special and rare. A unique opportunity to really dive deep into how to support our students in the best ways possible. I’m lucky to have collaborated with them, they have shared that they too feel lucky, and the best part is that our students and their families benefit from the time that we have spent focusing on best practices. 💙Kiitos paljon 💙
Go-karting, even the word just sounds like fun. In the small town of Jyvaskyla there is only one go-Karting place named ironically, gokart Jyvakala. My sister and I went for a long 7 mile bike ride to the place which is just outside of the town. Finland is a very beautiful country and it was nice to experience all of the nature (and all of the hills). About a block away from the course there was a nice little garden by the lake, we laid down a blanket and had a little lunch which consisted of sandwiches made the day before and sliced carrots.
As I was walking up the old tile stairs I could hardly contain my excitement. Me and my sister put on our helmets and sat down in the very small cars. We were ready for the green light, and I was off-the car was going much faster than I or any of use expected. I soon left my sister in the dust. As I got more comfortable with the car I started to drift around the corners. Coming up on my 6th lap I got a little excited and went too fast around the corner and spun out. In its own way it was kind of fun. I got stuck in a crevasse, but I couldn’t go backwards so I had to hail one of the people working there to help me. As soon as I was good to go, I went and got a new personal best. After the time was up, I did a victory lap and got out with my sister trailing behind to see what our slowest time was and the fastest time.
Well all in all that was a fast and awesome day.
Today’s blog is a little overview of some of the more exciting adventures from the past couple of weeks…
My birthday was naturally destined to be very unique and fun due to spending it in Finland but, my family worked so hard to make it all the more special. The day started with breakfast in bed created by the deluxe well-known Chef Liam. We then walked down to the local ziplining place! The course contained a series of obstacles followed by long ziplines that carried you to the next round. We were all hooked up to a wire that ran across the whole structure so we could go at our own speed and not need a guide. This was very special and I can’t believe that I got to go ziplining with such a wonderful view! After completing the entire course two times and our time was up, my brother and I rode the bus because we were so very worn out from all that balancing and climbing. We met our parents at a restaurant called Naughty Burger where my mom, dad, and I got veggie burgers and my brother got a double bacon burger (oh the irony!) After that delicious meal it was time to go back home where I was surprised by a gourmet homemade cake once again a Chef Liam specialty.
The thirst for adventure never ceases because this past week my family went on a trip to have a look around a fellow Finnish city called Turku. It took us all by surprise because of how lively and outgoing people were there. We have grown accustomed to people being kind but also very shy and quiet here in Jyvaskyla, so it was quite a revelation when we discovered the residents of Turku (I later learned that there’s a large Swedish population in Turku which does provide a more understandable explanation).
All in all a very pleasant and fun start to the summer.
There are times when it is sensible to follow the path of least resistance and make life easy even if it goes against our typical down and dirty rough-style of travel. I’m talking about taking a tour. Our destination: St. Petersburg, Russia. After a lot of research both online and anecdotal from other visitors, we realized that taking an overnight ferry and booking a tour through them provides a 72-hour visa free visit along with all the entry and departure cards provided. Best of all the tour guide waits to collect you the other side of the rather intimidating customs. This sounded good for a first foray.
We booked our trip via Moby/St. Peter Line on on the SS Anastasia, a jauntily painted ferry that boasts 8 decks, entertainment, a great breakfast and dinner buffet with self-serve beer and wine, duty free shop and movies. There was even a wonderful sauna/gym/pool area on the lowest deck. There were many different nationalities represented on board and we were not surprised that many of them have very different expectations regarding waiting in line for tickets or buffets, etc. By this I mean they won’t. Still, Finland has taught me patience and this won through in the end (along with strategic body positioning). We all enjoyed the buffet food and liked to taste local delicacies such as caviar and a multitude of fish dishes.
Entering any country by water is a real treat for me, and I was struck by the amount of lush green foliage that adorned the breakwater of St. Petersburg harbor. This soon gave way to a huge and rather grim industrial area that was impressive in part because of its extent, but also because of the diversity of the vessels being loaded or unloaded in the many broad channels. We’d traded our tour cards for actual tickets on board and were shepherded down several corridors cutting ahead of the rest of the passengers waiting to disembark eventually finding ourselves almost first in line for customs. Although I was expecting stern visages and probing questions as many others have experienced, including a man in front of a friend of mine being suddenly taken away on their visit, my customs officers were quite friendly.
Our tour guide was a teacher and part time employee of the Hermitage Museum and gave us a very good tour of the city on a comfortable, modern coach. She warned us about pickpockets at every stop, but none of us had any difficulties. We did witness a three person hand off of something while returning to the bus at the square in front of Isaac’s Cathedral. The whole situation was a little dodgy and as I was with my family and did not see any police officers anywhere, I decided to keep quiet. Other stops included St. Andrews Church, the Church of the Bloodletting, the good luck sphinxes and griffons by the river, and a tourist trap that sold chachkis after giving out free vodka (it was actually tasty). By far the best part though was the huge Hermitage Museum which is part of and adjacent to Catherine the Great’s Winter Palace. With around 3 million art exhibits, it is a true wonder and a major stop in the city. Get there early though as it is always busy. The city itself was surprising as architecturally it could have been Copenhagen or even Stockholm, not the grim communist block decor I was naively expecting.
Exhausted by the long day, back on board Robyn and I had a celebratory vodka. Later we returned the waves of excited children leaning out of the tall run-down tenement buildings that huddle near the harbor entrance and to the folks fishing along the breakwater as our floating behemoth slid past. It was a strangely moving experience as it provided a human aspect counterpoint to our day filled with the overbearing luxurious indulgence of monarchs. Our guide had told us that there are thousands of communal apartments in St. Petersburg; places where up to half a dozen families share a single kitchen and bathroom. Yet even though the people waving to us appeared happy and content, I wondered what life must be like in this modern Russia.
Note: St. Petersburg has the reputation of being ground zero for identity theft, as well as having a pickpocket problem. It is advisable to take a tour or if out touring alone, to make sure of sticking to main streets. Customs can be a challenge, even without a visa because of the tour, we still needed a landing and departure card as well as another permit. Restaurants and stores take credit cards, but it is advisable to use cash (rubles are the main currency, although fellow passengers said that they used euros and even dollars). One ruble equals about 14 U.S. cents. Cell phones should be on airplane mode and have cellular and data turned off to prevent identity theft.